Categories
3: Text and Image: Woman Lost 6.2: Colours of Luzon 6: JourneyasBeginning In Process

Richard Littler: Scarfolk

Scarfolk is a fictional northern English town created by writer and designer Richard Littler, who is sometimes identified as the town mayor. First published as a blog of fake historical documents, parodying British public information posters of the 1970s, a collected book was published in 2014.

https://scarfolk.blogspot.com

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1t7KxXy44QC5qC1R0h53Mg

Littler has said “I was always scared as a kid, always frightened of what I was faced with. … You’d walk into WHSmith… and see horror books with people’s faces melting. Kids’ TV included things like Children of the Stones, a very odd series you just wouldn’t get today. I remember a public information film made by some train organisation in which a children’s sports day was held on train tracks and, one by one, they were killed. It was insane. … I’m just taking it to the next logical step.

Scarfolk, which is forever locked in the 1970s, is a satire not only on that decade but also on contemporary events. It touches on themes of totalitarianism, suburban life, occultism and religion, school and childhood, as well as social attitudes such as racism and sexism.

Scarfolk was initially presented as a fake blog which purportedly releases artefacts from the town council’s archive. Artefacts include public information literature, out-of-print books, record and cassette sleeves, advertisements, television programme screenshots, household products, and audio and video, many of which suggest brands and imagery recognisable from the period. Additionally, artefacts are usually accompanied by short fictional vignettes which are also presented as factual and introduce residents of Scarfolk. The public information literature often ends with the strapline: “For more information please reread.”

The aesthetic is utilitarian, inspired by public sector materials in the United Kingdom such as Protect and Survive.

A television series co-written by Will Smith was described as “in the works” in 2018.[1]

Categories
2.2 Shutterscapes 2: Landscapes of Place Photography Technique

Photoshop: jpg artifact and noise reduction

A very basic explanation of removal of jpg artifacts in the Noise Reduction filter, discussing the potential tensions between different aims. Improves, but does not produce a high quality image.
An interesting approach using Lab Colour mode to separate out the lightness, colour and contrast channels of the image. Artifacts are most evident in the colour and contrast A and B channels. Add Gaussian blur to A and B channels. Higher values give a sort of watercolour effect. Sharpen the lightness channel. Go back to RGB at the end to use filters etc again.
Duplicate the image. On top layer use surface blur – avoids blurring the edges. Change to colour blend mode to get rid of colour noise. Mask areas if necessary. Duplicate again and use dust and scratches filter gets rid of luminance noise. Again use masks to [reserve details. Duplicate again and Reduce Noise filter and use preserve details slider.
Uses Dfine and Lumensia combined in Photoshop.
Uses multiple images as layers and image average.

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2.2 Shutterscapes 2: Landscapes of Place 6.1: Road to Cabanatuan 6: JourneyasBeginning Photography Technique

Photoshop sketch and line drawings

Jesus Ramirez Photoshop Channel
1) isolate model from background eg select subject and click on add mask. refine selection.make smart object.
2) Duplicate: original, base,
3) duplicate, invert .colour dodge blend. Gaussian blur filter eg 31.8. black and white adjustment layer Charcoal filter. blend mode multiply
4) Lines layer: duplicate BW, glowing edges,invert, multiply blend. levels. blend if to hide detail.
5) Fine tune with mask
6) Add some fine pencil lines with brush tile ultimate pencil
7) Can then replace the original image in the smart object and re-edit the smart filters
Piximperfect.
1) Create the surface and base image. Mask areas you do not want.
2) Pencil sketch filter Graphic pen . use blend if to vary blackness. Split slider. Decrease opacity. Add a bit of blur .3
3) New layer pencil outline Kyle Ultimate pencil. Clip layer to sketch, so is never darker than under sketch. Can turn off pencil layer top follow the underlying photo if wsnt.
Normal colour dodge approach: BW, BW, copy, invert, blend colour dodge, filter Gaussian Blur
His approach:
Smart Object layer ‘Shadows’
#3 filters: Copy, Gaussian Blur, High Pass, Sketch/notepaper 0 0 25 Levels adjust
Shadows layer: charcoal filter. multiply.
Can add paper texture. Multiply.
Can change image.
Tony Harmer ‘The Design Ninja’ approach.
Uses 1 Smart Object layer
1) Gaussian blur. dial in large value (eg 50) Divide blend mode
2) CRaw filter. Black and white.
3) Can add glowing edges. Subtract blend.
4) Oil paint filter
5) fine tune with local effects using CRaw adjustment brush on new layer
6) Can change the image through re-linking the base file.
Colin Smith Photoshop cafe
1) Duplicate layer CSU black and white Colour Dodge. Gaussian Blur
2) Duplicate again invert
3) Combine to layer group and duplicate. Blur top layer even more. Blend top group to darken. Reduce opacity in top layer
4) Duplicate top layer group increase top blur a lot. Add layer mask, fill black and paint in. Largeish brush 30%. Additional details in face and hair.
5) Select everything SACE for sharpening mode. Overlay blend. High Pass.
Uses brushes and masks.
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2.1: Bridge 2.2 Shutterscapes 2: Landscapes of Place 4: Audience: Shifting Edges 6: JourneyasBeginning In Process

Technique: Digital software workflow

A key focus of my work in this module, particularly Part 2: Landscapes of Place has been to significantly deepen and widen my technical expertise in Lightroom and Nik FX, to add to my further exploration of Photoshop and Illustrator from Project 2.1 Hagg Wood. This required a steep learning curve from You Tube videos and lynda.com tutorials on Lightroom, NikFX and Photoshop .

My conclusions of workflow are that the key is to explore a range of image possibilities through initial experimentation as unexpected discoveries are often made – the more one becomes familiar with the software the more possibilities open up. This helps clarify what one is aiming to communicate – often a number of different interpretations that are relevant for different purposes and combinations of narrative. Then images can be reviewed and refined:

Lightroom

  • most images intended for professional ‘straight’ colour, black and white and/or split tone photography treatment can be produced using Lightroom alone. If the source photographs are large size RAW images with little tonal clipping etc, then much of what can be done in Nik FX or Photoshop can be done more quickly in Lightroom, using tone and colour sliders, adjustment gradients and filters, with the result already linked to an image management catalogue ready for multiple web upload, printing, book production and slideshows etc with metadata.
  • using History and Snapshots in Lightroom are very useful to keep record of the adjustments made for easy annotation as metadata.
  • if other software are to be used, it is still useful to use Lightroom first for quick spot removal, cropping with guides, removal of tonal clipping and getting an even tone distribution, file-naming and metadata input then editing from Lightroom in the other software so that the result is automatically added to the image catalogue.

See posts:

Nik FX

Nik FX Dfine is quicker and more effective for noise reduction where significant amounts of noise are present.

Viveza, Silver FX and Color FX are easier and more intuitive to use than Lightroom or Photoshop for ‘painting in’ lighting effects using a mouse. The use of control points is much quicker, and produces more targeted and subtle as well as dramatic effects differentiating different parts of the image for depth and leading the eye through the image.

Silver FX, Analog Pro and Color FX can quickly produce a number of interesting image variants that can then be further tweaked either in Lightroom and/or Photoshop.

Silver FX, Analog Pro and Color FX are particularly useful for easily converting low resolution images with noise and jpg artifacts or high levels of highlight/shadow clipping into interesting creative images. These can then be further tweaked either in Lightroom and/or Photoshop.

Where only one or two FX are needed, it is quicker to do this directly from Lightroom and this then exports directly into the catalogues and collections
Where a series of FX and variations are needed, with or without Photoshop editing on top, this is best done through editing as a Photoshop smart object and stacking filters as alternative versions that can be switched on and off and exported as separate tiff files.

See posts:

Photoshop

is needed for producing photographic positives for printmaking and painting and artistic effects and blending and compositing multiple images in photo-montage.

See posts:

Software for digital art: iPad and Corel Painter

For digital art I prefer:

  • iPad software like Procreate, ArtRage, Sjketchbook Pro and SketchClub are more expressive and easier to use for digital drawing and painting See iPad explorations
  • Corel Painter is better for high end digital watercolour and painting (still to be properly explored).